Owners of apartments, big and small houses, and even dorms need the services of a emergency plumber to check on their toilets, drains, hot water system and kitchen pipes regularly. People who want to save on plumbing try to do the job by themselves, but when they break something or have done it incorrectly, they decide to call a qualified emergency plumber . This always costs the person more. At the very start, if you think you can’t do the job well, especially if you’re a first-timer, it’s wiser to let a plumbing professional do it for you. It can be very dangerous to perform plumbing wok yourself.

Why you need an emergency plumber:

• At anytime, a faucet could leak in your home or a clog could happen in your bathtub. When you can’t close the faucet anymore and the water keeps flowing, it’s time to call an emergency plumber. Close the main line while the emergency plumber is still on the way.
• When there is a damaged pipe somewhere causing water leakage. Keep in mind that this is not a DIY job because you’ll have to replace the pipe perfectly with a new one, without creating a leak in connecting both ends. Moreover, a plumbing company has special tools to do the job.
• For mounting or fitting of needed equipments to create proper functioning of your sewage, natural gas, and water connection systems.
• When you have a problem on leaking fixtures like sink, drain pipes, sewage, and other leaking fixtures.
• You need emergency plumber for installation and maintenance of new piping system or fixtures.
• Especially, if you want your heating system installed, fixed or maintained.
• Instances where your hot water system no long works and you are now having cold showers. Oh boy!

How to find a qualified plumber

Finding an expert emergency plumber may not be as easy as you think. You can find a lot of them out there, but finding the best one may be difficult. Ask referrals from your family and friends, and search the Internet. When you have short-listed a few plumbing companies, check on their background, previous clients and prices.

Make sure that you only get trusted and reputable people to work inside your home. Read online reviews from their clients.

Before any troubleshooting is done, make sure to prepare safely for the job by doing the following:

• Turn off power to an electric water heater system. Do this by turning off the circuit breaker or fuse powering the heater.
• Turn the gas pilot control valve to “pilot” setting.
• Shut off the water supply to the water heater.

Let’s take a look at each problem and what possible causes and repairs exist.

No Hot Water Flow

Possible Causes

• Faulty gas pilot
• Faulty gas thermocouple
• Faulty gas pilot control valve

Possible Repairs

• Check that the gas pilot flame and pilot is operational.
• Re-tighten, reposition or replace the gas thermocouple.
• Replace the gas pilot control valve.

Insufficient Hot Water

Possible Causes

• Hot water system is undersized for water heating demands
• Broken or damaged dip tube allowing cold and hot water to mix in the tank.
• Faulty plumbing installation has crossed cold and hot water connections
• Gas supply or control problems

Possible Repairs

• Make sure the hot water system is not being overtaxed by hot water supply demands. The hot water system should have 75% of its capacity as hot water (e.g., a 40 gallon WH should be used for a demand of 30 gallons).
• Undo the cold-water inlet and pipe nipple and remove dip tube. Check the condition and replace if required.
• Check for crossed connection by turning off the water supply to the hot water system . Open a hot water faucet. If there is water flow, then there is a crossed connection somewhere. Check for a hot water line connected to a cold-water connection on the water heater or appliances such as washer, dishwasher, faucet or shower valves.
• Check for a proper flame from the burner. A natural gas flame should be bright blue with the tip of the flame having just a tinge of yellow. A propane flame should have a bluish green flame with a tinge of yellow at the tip.

Rust Colored Water

Possible Causes

• Corrosion occurring inside glass lined tank
• Sacrificial anode rod is failing (anode rods dissolve slowly to prevent rusting in the tank)

Possible Repairs

• Replace the sacrificial anode rod with magnesium anode rod. Anode rods are available from a plumbing supply house.

Rotten Egg Smell

Possible Causes

• Bacteria in the tank sediment fed from hydrogen gas created from decay of sacrificial anode.

Possible Repairs

• Flush the hot water system using a hydrogen peroxide solution of 2 pints 3% peroxide to 40 gallons of water, treat tank and run some of the solution into water lines.
• Let peroxide solution set in the tank and pipes for 2 hours. The Solution is not toxic and requires no rinsing.
• If the problem persists, replace the anode with a zinc-alloy anode.
• If the problem still remains, replace the hot water system with a plastic lined tank type.

Low Rumbling or Popping Noise

Possible Causes

• Noise heard is the sound of boiling water. Excessive buildup of sediment in bottom of the tank is causing overheating of the tank bottom and boiling of water to occur.

Possible Repairs

Remove sediment by flushing the hot water system

Water Leak Around Base of Heater

Possible Causes

• A faulty T&P (temperature and pressure) relief valve
• The T&P valve leaks due to excessive pressure, overheating or is stuck
• A leak from overhead or nearby plumbing connection
• A leaking water tank (corrosion likely)

Possible Repairs

• Place the bucket under overflow pipe. Open and flush T&P valve clear of debris. If the leak remains from the valve, replace the valve.
• Reduce the thermostat setting to prevent tank overheating and opening T&P relief valve.
• Inspect bottom of the tank by looking through the combustion chamber. If water marks or heavy rusting is noticed or if water is noticed setting in the combustion chamber bottom, then the water heater needs to be replaced.

This article is for licensed plumbers to refer to. The general public can read this article for interest sake. However, you should not attempt the below.

Step 1: Remove the Old Hot Water System

Before you can install a new hot water system , its pretty logical to remove the old one! Yes, some people don’t remove the old one – but only a very few. With a fire extinguisher close to you, begin shutting off the gas valve with an adjustable open-end wrench. If you are unsure of what an open-end wrench is, best you call a professional plumber. Verify that no gas is leaking by first visually looking at the pilot light, which burns off shortly, and then smelling the area. If you do not detect a gas leak, turn the pilot switch to the “off” position and disconnect the exhaust duct located on top of the tank.

Note:  Never ever use a flame to detect a gas leak.

Step 2: Drain the System

Shut off the cold-water “in” valve, and then release the water into the floor drain if one is installed. This makes the heater lighter and much easier to remove and carry.

While waiting for the water to empty, use a large pipe wrench to disconnect the gas line from the heater. To prevent “racking” the gas line, use a second wrench to provide some counter-torque. Once the fitting has been disconnected, double-checks that gas is not escaping.

Additionally, using a pair of large pipe wrenches for counter-torque, disconnect the cold “in” and hot “out” pipes in turn. This action allows more air into the heater, causing the water to drain much faster. Because longer flex pipes will be used for the new connections you will install, temporarily remove the cold-water shutoff valve. Shut off the main water located elsewhere in the household or business. To remove the valve assembly, use a pipe cutter, which scores the pipe in increments until eventually breaking through it. Also use the flex pipe to cut off the old hot “out” connector.

With the valve assembly removed and the water completely drained, it’s out with the old and in with the new hot water heater.

Step 3: Connect the New Segments of Flex Pipe

The first step to preparing the new system for installation is to connect the new segments of flex pipe. Begin by rolling Teflon tape clockwise around the cold “in” and hot “out” connectors on the hot water heater. This creates a good seal for the flex pipe, which you will tighten onto both connectors with the open-end wrench. Take the off the old system from the incoming gas supply.

Step 4: Connect a Water Supply

The first step is to connect the water heater to the water supply you must transition the water valve removed earlier. Burnish the cut ends with an emery cloth to expose fresh copper. To prepare for soldering, brush on a paste flux and twist on carefully a copper union with built-in solder. Continue joining segments of pipe with unions and two new fittings in this way. Once the correct assembly is achieved, solder using a propane torch to apply even heat to each union liquefying the solder to make a water-tight seal.

With the new valve assembly ready to go, roll Teflon tape over the new fitting and counter-torques with open-end wrenches to connect it to the cold-water flex pipe installed earlier in the process. Then solder a new union between the valve assembly and the incoming supply pipe

With the cold water supply connected to the new system, turn your attention to the hot water side. Start by soldering a new fitting to the outgoing pipe that was cut previously. After putting on some Teflon tape, connect the hot flex pipe. You’re now able to fill the heater with cold water. Turn on the main water for the house, and then the cold-water valve. While the water is running, connect the gas flex-line and reattach the duct and draft hood to vent the heater.

Once the water is completely filled, open the gas shut-off valve and ignite the pilot light, set the temperature, and the heater is ready to be utilized